Friday, 28 November 2014

Spiced pomegranate yoghurt chicken with clementine and pistachio giant couscous



There are some ingredients that I can’t help but think of as edible jewels, glamorizing and adorning whatever culinary creation you choose to scatter them over. Pomegranates are the most obvious, those little sweet stones adding a dramatic ruby flourish and a burst of vitamin-rich sweetness to anything that needs a bit of visual magic; I particularly love them paired with snowy white goat’s cheese or yoghurt for the ultimate colour contrast. There are also pistachios, adding flecks of emerald to salads or grains, or, when finely ground, imparting their incredible vibrant green to a cake mixture. Clementines, too – though we tend to simply eat peel and eat them unadulterated, those bright marigold segments are beautiful to cook with, adding a snap of colour and a fresh citrus hit to salads and stews.

Wednesday, 19 November 2014

Slow-braised Asian beef shin with pomelo salad



Pomelo are back in season at the moment. I spied them at the market the other day, presented as they often are unnecessarily swaddled in both cling film and orange net - I've never quite understood this. If you've ever prepared a pomelo, you'll know that it has a very thick, spongy rind, which is surely enough to protect it from almost anything without the need for cling film and a net. It also makes the fruit a little daunting to prepare. You need a sharp knife to quarter the fruit lengthways, and then strong hands to prise the thick white membrane away from the firm flesh within. The reward, though, is in the eating of this deliciously refreshing fruit, firmer and milder than a grapefruit, with a grassy citrus zing and a subtle perfume about it. I like to experiment, but I always fall back on this winner of a recipe.

Wednesday, 12 November 2014

Gin and beetroot cured gravadlax



The most demanding part of making gravadlax is forcing yourself to part with large amounts of money for the salmon. A whole side of salmon isn’t cheap, but by curing it you can make it go a lot further than if you just cooked and ate it as a main course. Plus, the feeling of self-satisfaction you’ll get is sort of priceless. I bought a whole salmon on impulse at a food fair a few months ago, as one does, and decided to finally have a go at making this classic dish myself, using Diana Henry’s excellent preserving book Salt Sugar Smoke. Beetroot-cured salmon is even prettier than the plain variety, fringing the flesh with a beautiful maroon blush that looks fabulous when you slice and serve it.

Thursday, 6 November 2014

Very green quinoa salad with avocado, seared chorizo and toasted almonds



I made and ate this after coming home from an aerobics class. I haven’t been to said aerobics class in months. I’d forgotten that the reason said class is called ‘Body Attack’ is because it leaves you feeling – you guessed it – like someone has attacked your body. Muscles aching, and with a slight touch of nausea from repeatedly rolling over on my back from sit-up position to plank position, I whipped up this so-ridiculously-nutritious-it-should-be-available-on-an-intravenous-drip-on-the-NHS salad. I have rarely felt healthier in my life.

Tuesday, 21 October 2014

Spiced pulled brisket in a milk bun with coleslaw



Left to his own devices in my house while I spent some time back at my parents', my boyfriend lovingly cultivated, over a period of four weeks, what he matter-of-factly calls a 'man fridge'. For the uninitiated: this basically means that, when I returned and opened the chilled receptacle that is at the heart of my kitchen, I found four items: a steak, some bacon, a tub of marmite and a packet of blue cheese. Furthermore, the majority of those items were past their sell-by date.

In a similar vein, this meal is what I believe is technically termed 'man food'. In order to classify as man food, a dish must comprise at least three of the following items: bread, pasta, potatoes, alcohol, rice, meat, mayonnaise, chips, condiments, cheese. Of these elements, meat must make up the predominant component of the meal, with refined carbohydrates in an esteemed second place. I think I performed the task admirably. Note the ratio of meat to vegetables and how it is all enclosed in a piece of bread. Extra man food points for enclosing everything in a piece of bread (calzone might be, perhaps, the ultimate man food).

Monday, 13 October 2014

Sweetcorn jalapeño fritters with grilled tomatoes, bacon and mango & avocado salsa


Apologies for the radio silence; I’ve been in Thailand. Isn’t that a great sentence to be able to write? Photos and Thai-inspired recipes to follow shortly, but for now I am going to share a rare savoury breakfast treat. This brunch is not for the faint-hearted: it’s big, rich, hearty and very substantial. If that puts you off, you’re probably reading the wrong blog. If not, let me get you even more excited. Imagine plump, juicy kernels of sweetcorn whisked into a pancake batter spiked with chopped jalapeño, spring onions and a generous spoonful of blushing paprika. These are fried until crispy on the outside and tender in the middle, and served with bacon, grilled cherry tomatoes and an avocado and mango salsa.

Wednesday, 3 September 2014

Postcards from Costa Rica and Nicaragua


I haven't updated this blog in a while; summer is always a busy time and although a lot of luscious cooking does get done, it somehow rarely makes it onto the internet except in the form of quick Facebook photos that either bear one of two captions: OMGYUM, or 'Yeah, I know right.' So I thought I'd take a moment to share some of my holiday photos from my trip to Costa Rica and Nicaragua in April. There aren't many of food, because a) they are all camera phone photos and so not aesthetically beautiful and b) I basically ate the same thing every day: rice and beans, plantain, and some form of protein. Which was nice but resulted in me going out for a pizza one night, something I vowed never to do while abroad anywhere other than Italy. It was an excellent trip involving beautiful jungle, zip-lining oh so high above said jungle while screaming at the top of my lungs, lots of wild swimming, papaya, horse riding, mojitos on tropical islands, wildlife, a couple of earthquakes, some turtles, boat trips, and unfortunately a very nasty incident involving 387 bedbug bites and a traumatic missed flight home...but let's forget that part and focus on the nice. See below.

Friday, 22 August 2014

Apricot and almond custard tart


This is the ultimate taste of summer for me, because it involves my ultimate summer fruit: the apricot. Between about June and October, it would be a very rare thing to open my fridge and not spy a brown paper bag full of these golden, silky, fragrant orbs. I buy them in bulk every time I visit a market or a supermarket, spending a few moments picking out the best: those that feel heaviest in the hand, those that are warm and soft as a baby’s cheek rather than hard and cold, those that sport a mottled, sienna-coloured blush on one side. Of course, this is no real indication of what they will be like to eat raw – I’ve never had a very good raw apricot in my life, and have given up trying. Instead, apricots meet one of two ends in my kitchen: that of being baked slowly with honey, orange blossom water and cinnamon in the oven, or poached in a pan with orange juice, vanilla and star anise. Oh, and sometimes I make jam, throwing in cardamom seeds and a vanilla pod. It’s divine.

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Barbecued harissa chicken with griddled peach bulgur wheat & cucumber yoghurt



One of my favourite things to eat this summer is a combination of spicy, grilled meat of some description, coupled with a hearty, bolstering salad of grains or pulses enriched and brightened with the best of the summer’s fruits, plus a dollop of cooling cucumber yoghurt alongside – I love the contrast in both texture and temperature between hot, sizzling meat, warm pulses and thick, cold yoghurt made extra refreshing with grated cucumber and fresh mint. Peaches are a particular favourite for salads, partly because they are so sweet and delicious alongside savoury ingredients, and partly because you can griddle them to produce gorgeous chargrilled red-orange segments that will brighten up whatever you want to throw them in. 

Sunday, 3 August 2014

Peach, blackcurrant and rosemary breakfast crumble



I’ve eaten more peaches this summer than probably the last five or six summers combined. I usually give up on peaches in England, because they’re imported rock hard and never ripen properly, tasting sad and woolly and a tragic shadow of what you know they could be. But they’re so cheap and abundant right now that I can’t resist buying a punnet or two in the supermarket, safe in the knowledge that, if all else fails, I can at least rescue them with the application of some sugar and searing oven heat.

Saturday, 26 July 2014

"Delicious duck curry" (red Thai curry with slow-cooked duck legs)


A couple of months ago, my boyfriend and I visited Oxford. It’s only the second time I’ve been back since finishing my Masters in 2011. The entire weekend was a glorious succession of sunshine, revisiting old haunts, catching up with friends, aching nostalgia, beautiful scenery and incredible food. While I diligently tried to return to as many of my favourite restaurants as possible, I also decided to try somewhere new. I’d read rave reviews on the internet of a place simply termed ‘Oli’s Thai’, and so we found ourselves tucked into this tiny restaurant on a sunny Saturday afternoon experiencing some of the best south east Asian food I’ve ever eaten…including that in south east Asia itself.

Monday, 14 July 2014

Five things I love this week #10



1. Hutong, the Shard. I won a meal at Hutong after taking part in the Cote de Rhone Chinese takeaway blogger challenge a few months ago. Last weekend, we made the (for me, stricken by vertigo, terrifying) journey high up the Shard to indulge in a leisurely four-hour, multi-course lunch in the gorgeous surroundings of Hutong. Resplendent with red lanterns, carved wood and ornate ironwork, you feel like you're eating lunch in old Shanghai or Hong Kong. We started with a pot of jasmine tea and some beautiful, delicate dim sum (crab; lobster; vegetable and bamboo; wagyu beef puffs; scallop and pumpkin; and some unusual dumpling parcels filled with a savoury, delicious meat broth that were unlike anything I've ever tasted before). Next came crispy duck, carved ceremoniously at the table, its lacquered skin sliced through like butter and placed in neat, glistening rows on a plate for us to enjoy with pancakes and hoi sin. The cocktails were incredible, presented like little glass-held meals in themselves, decorated lavishly with fresh herbs and fruit and bursting with unusual aromatic Eastern flavours.

Monday, 7 July 2014

Turmeric & lime roasted chicken with Vietnamese-style crunchy mango salad


We all, I think, have times where we wish our mouths had an ‘undo’ button. Where we would happily go back in time and refrain from eating that last piece of bread, slice of cake, cutlet of meat, forkful of noodles, entire two courses…times where we’re so disgracefully full that we empathise with force-fed foie gras geese as we waddle, moaning plaintively, home to fester fatly in bed until the following morning when we declare we are never eating that much again. A bit like a food hangover, really. 

Tuesday, 1 July 2014

Risotto with blue cheese, pine nuts and caramelised balsamic pears


You can keep your chutney. Cheese, for me, is best enjoyed paired with a lusciously ripe piece of sweet fruit to complement its mouth-coating richness and dense, fudgy texture. The exact fruit will depend on the cheese: toffee-scented dates, for example, are best paired with a fairly fresh, tangy cheese like goat’s or feta; stronger, sharper, crumblier cheddars go better with crisp apples or grapes. Having said this, an excellent all-round fruit for pairing with cheese is the pear. Crisp and glassy or soft and yielding in texture, tangy and grassy or delectably syrupy depending on ripeness and variety, there’s a pear to partner almost any cheese you can think of.

Tuesday, 24 June 2014

Amok trey (Cambodian fish curry steamed in banana leaves)



Before I even go into the wild and wonderful merits of this beautiful dish, let’s just revel for a second in the fact that it’s called ‘amok’. Apparently this is simply a Cambodian term for cooking a curry in banana leaves, but I don’t think we use the word ‘amok’ enough in English and so let’s take a moment and think about how we can incorporate it more into our lives.

Good. Now you’ve done that, let me tell you about the beautiful amok.